Since I moved to LA, surfing has been a way for me to clear my mind and recharge my creative energy when I've felt stuck. This past week I've been feeling pretty empty creatively, so I strapped my board up and drove down to Chula Vista to visit my buddy and surfing sensei, Jeff. I haven't surfed since I left for my trip to Asia last year, so I thought it would be a great chance to get out of my daily routine and back into surfing.
Jeff taught me almost everything I know about surfing. He lives on a boat with his chihuahua, Chico. He used to have a Queensland Blue Heeler named Brittany, but she died about a year ago. Jeff adopted Chico from the pound about a year or so ago. Chico shivers a lot because he's bred for warmer Mexican climate.
The waves weren't very big, so Jeff suggested I take his longboard out because I'd have an easier time with it than with my board. It was an 8'5" tri-fin, the largest board I've ever ridden. After some fiddling around, he took out the side fins so that it would be a looser ride and easier to turn. As usual, Jeff knew best. Despite the crowd, and having not surfed in a year or so, I caught the first two waves I paddled for. After walking Chico on the beach, Jeff met me in the water on my board, which is a 7'2" single fin. I ended up catching long, easy rides all morning. I've been swimming at the YMCA down the street from where I live, so my shoulders were in surfing shape, but my back got pretty tired from staying arched the whole time.
Chico and I developed a bit of a bond. He's small and feisty around bigger dogs, kind of like me. I got caught trying to dognap him!
A surfing trip would not complete without fish tacos.
When I first met Jeff, I had never touched a surfboard. I feel a sort of juvenile delight catching waves while he is watching me. I think it makes him feel good too, knowing his mentorship paid off.
very cool man! :) surf's up!
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